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The sparkling steel and marble of the new international airport at Kuala Lumpur was merely an aperitif. The main course was immaculate motorways, spotless restaurants, gleaming skyscrapers, landscaped parks, and cranes everywhere. The pace of development is breathtaking. Everything seems new. Add the world’s highest tower, its tallest building, the latest IT technology,
and one of the newest F1 circuits, and you have today’s Malaysia – a nation determined to show that “Malaysia can!” to quote its own slogan.
Kuala Lumpur was once renowned for little but jammed traffic. But under the astonishing management of Prime Minister Mahathir, it has exploded into a 21st century icon of Asia, though it probably required his reputed ‘benign dictatorship style’ to achieve.
Gone are the rickshaws and slums, the siesta and the colonialised mindset. Now monorails hum overhead while the latest Mercedes ply the main roads. EVERYTHING is air-conditioned.
But once out of the city, Malaysia defaults to jungle. Its rolling hills heave with tropical exuberance, a million greens in tangled profusion: soaring timber with umbrella canopies, fruit trees unknown, palms, ferns, lianes,
creepers, jewelled birds and butterflies; and the world’s largest flowers.
However, down the western seaboard the default has been reprogrammed to oil palm; 50% of the world’s crop is produced here. Clambering over the rumpled plains, creeping up the kinder hillsides, every spare acre is planted. Like a prosperous coconut in appearance, the coarser trunk soon becomes bearded with ferns and saprophytes.
Beside the declining rubber that palm replaces, the newest crop is houses. Neat, identical rows sprout from the fox-red dirt, invariably painted cream with red-tiled roofs. The slums of 2020? In this self-confident climate? They’ll just be flattened for richer semis known locally as ‘bungalows’…
But development always costs. Here it is the jungle receding glacier-like into the mountains from the gang-rape of
overzealous development, illegal logging, out-of-control traffic growth and agricultural chemical use. More seriously, it is the underlying tension between the 55% Malay (& Muslim) majority, 30% Chinese, and 10% Indian communities. The minorities resent the political domination of the natives; the Malays the acumen and prosperity of the immigrants. They are three untwined strands repelled by language, culture, and religion, each stubbornly adhering to its own. English is ubiquitous as a lingua diplomatica, but the much-flaunted harmony is thin-skinned.
The length and breadth of Malaysia
Into this modern melting-pot I found myself propelled to preach ‘healing meetings’. I was the guest of Dr Manikkam, a pastor with a passionate vision for unity, who lived at Semenyih,
Kuala Lumpur - showcase of “Malaysia boleh!”
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